Yeossal, Bespoke Tailoring
All photos unless otherwise specified by Peggy Goh (Instagram: @pegtodiffer – www.instagram.com/pegtodiffer)
At a certain time in your life, every man will want to have a suit of their own. Depending on preference and needs, Yeossal advises and tailors clothing that are relevant to your lifestyle and needs.
Yeossal is a luxury tailor that offers a curated collection of products from menswear (i.e. made-to-measure suits, bespoke suits, oxford shirts to polo shirts using quality techniques and materials) to classic shoes from highly regarded Italian bespoke artisan Antonio Meccariello and Spanish shoe makers TLB Mallorca as well as shoe care products from Saphir and Abbeyhorn.
Do not be thrown off by Yeossal’s location – Circular Road where night life begins after 6pm. They are located on level two, up a short flight of stairs to the sleek looking store. The turnaround time for a bespoke suit and/or made-to-measure suit is between six to eight weeks and appointments must be made in advance.
The difference between a bespoke blazer and a made-to measure (MTM) blazer/suit is that a bespoke blazer is crafted end to end mostly by hand by Yeossal’s Master Tailor Kevin (“Shifu”). In addition to the fitting, he is the one who observes your silhouette and cuts a unique garment specifically for the wearer. Kevin has been in this trade for close to 50 years. He is perhaps one of a handful in the world who can put together an entire jacket from start to finish, coupled with his skill and expertise in creating the unique details of a bespoke blazer/suit.
After understanding the needs of the customer, Yeossal provides suggestions and recommendations such as fabric type, outfit type and suitability (casual and/or formal). Leonard eventually settled on a bespoke blazer that serves multiple functions (formal and for semi-formal occasions).
Next, Yeossal discusses with the client the selection of fabric and button types. Drago Rugby Flannel fabric (waterproof on both sides) and a pairing of Horn Buttons were selected for Leonard. Next was the all-important decision on sleeve cut and front button type (three buttons or two buttons – with Leonard eventually settling on three buttons), sleeve buttons (three or four buttons, spaced or overlapping – with overlapping four buttons selected).
The preliminary measurements are then sent to Kevin, the Master Tailor, who dropped by Yeossal to ensure that the specifications were accurate for the canvas cut. Kevin known for his meticulousness, prefers to measure the client in person, to not only ensure that all measurements are accurate, but also to get to know the client on a personal level before he starts on his piece. To Kevin, every suit and blazer is a piece of art derived through his hard work and heart. This process is also known as the Fitting Day, in which the final adjustments are made before the actual canvas is cut and produced.
The final garment is delivered in a typical Yeossal house style that is also designed for an Asian customer in mind. To cater to the Asian physique, the jackets take on different features from different regions to better fit and flatter the local clientele. Featuring little or no padding from Neapolitan influences, the jackets are however cut tighter to the chest unlike the Neapolitan drape cut and come with a high armhole to better accentuate torso lines and elongate the wearer. Each piece also features elaborate details like the barchetta pocket and Milanese buttonholes.
Personally, I find it hard to find a good fitting suit off the rack because of the asymmetry and idiosyncrasies of my body. The ready-to-wear suits available in the market that fit the upper part of my body tend to leave a lot of room in the waist area.
Yeossal’s bespoke tailoring service takes care of these problems as the suit is made according to my body type. My journey with Yeossal started with an initial consultation to understand and review the look and style that I was going for. My first impression of the staff was that they were knowledgeable about cut, fit, and fabrics, and were passionate in their craft.
The atelier offers a wide range of selections for suiting (including fabrics from Europe). Andre (one of the tailors from Yeossal) helped me narrow down my choice to a forest green fabric from the Drago S.p.A Rugby Flannel series for my formal suit as I was looking for a fabric that was fuzz free and low maintenance. I was immediately drawn to the melange-effect of the fabric which I thought stood out from the other fabrics. According to them, the Rugby Flannel boasts the following benefits: breathable; stretchable; water repellent; wine and oil resistant.
They took my measurements and studied the contours of my body and standing posture. They told me that my shoulders were slightly forward and the blazer would be adjusted to take that into account. I was very impressed by their attention to details.
Fast forward to the present, I am very satisfied with the finished product. The craftsmanship is impeccable and the fit is flattering and sharp. The shoulders fit well and there are no visible wrinkles in the waist nor at the back of the suit (these are signs that the suit is not too tight). My only complaint is that the pants are slightly wider than what I expected but that is mainly due to the instructions that I gave them. Yeossal has kindly offered to alter the pants to improve the fit. One thing to note is that the forest green fabric looks more charcoal grey under the light which I find to be versatile for both boardroom meetings and for dressing down with a pair of washed denim jeans.
The service that I received from Yeossal exceeded my expectations. I was happy to be involved in the construction and customisation of the suit from the start to the end. I think that it is important for anyone who is thinking about commissioning a made-to-measure (MTO) or bespoke suit to engage a reliable and experienced tailor. This cannot be emphasised enough as a MTO or bespoke suit is not cheap (about S$900 for a half-canvassed MTO suit) and you will probably want to get some mileage out of it (assuming you take care of your waistline).
In my opinion, Yeossal’s products (including the fabrics from Europe) are priced competitively compared to other local tailors. Also, you will be happy to know that the atelier regularly rolls out promotions for multiple purchases. I understand from Yeossal that they are able to keep their prices low by purchasing the fabrics in bulk and transferring the savings to their customers. These pricing methods are a reflection of the atelier’s ethos “to make luxurious goods affordable”.
With that in mind, I will strongly recommend Yeossal to anyone who is thinking about:
- investing in a well-made set of suit; and/or
- injecting a bit of sartorial flair in their everyday dressing.
Besides tailoring for males, Yeossal personalises for females too. The whole process is the same for both customisation of the blazer and shirtdress. The only difference in terms of customizing for females will be the bust and hip areas.
I do not personally have a liking for two-piece formal suits. Thus, I was delighted when Yeossal suggested a custom-made sleeveless shirtdress for me. The turnaround time from the initial stage of consultation to the final product took two weeks.
Takeback notes on Shirtdress: A shirtdress is a style of a woman’s dress that borrows details from a man’s shirt – collars, buttons, sleeves and more. The difference is practically the length as well as the need to fit the apparel accordingly to the body shape of a woman, usually looser at the waist area, accompanied with a belt for emphasis to the waist.
Yeossal was meticulous throughout the process, from taking my measurements to discussing my preferences in terms of colour (it was a toss up between pastel pink and light-washed denim and I eventually settled on the denim colour), feel, fabric, cut, type of collar (I chose a Peter Pan collar), shape and placement of hip pockets (specifically slanted) and length of side splits all the way to the most intricate details of the inner placket. An optional sash was included if I wanted to define my waist. I preferred a simpler look and I fiddled around with the sash and used it as a tie instead, giving a different overall feel and look to the shirtdress. Yeossal respects its customers and their views and provides advice to accentuate the best features of the customer’s physique.
I always think that it is more difficult to custom-make clothing for females. Yeossal managed to pull off the look I wanted – versatile and flexible for multiple occasions – both formal and semi-formal looks. The shirtdress was a perfect fit for me as it drapes beautifully. The fabric was also very comfortable. I couldn’t be more pleased with the outcome.
33A Circular Road
Singapore 049389Mon, Tue, Thus & Fri: 11.30am – 7.30pm
Sat: 10.30am – 5pm
Sun and PH: Closed+65 8202 3625
Yeossal has partnered the Law Society to offer exclusive privileges for all members, till May 2020.
- One free shirt from a premium Italian mill worth $148 for every suit made.
- Black suit in Holland & Sherry Portofino fabric at $898.
Click here to find out more: https://www.lawsociety.org.sg/For-Lawyers/Services-for-Members/Membership-Benefits/Lifestyle-Benefits/Yeossal